Just the Usual Cast of Characters

Relentless westerly winds buffeted Race Rocks today starting before dawn and continuing through dusk. With the 25 – 30 knot winds (gusting higher), came sweeps of clouds and showers. The barometer was fairly steady at 110 hPa and the forecast is for more strong winds and showers.

There were no fishers or eco-tour boats today. The sea was quite rough and the big currents of the full moon pulled them even higher.

The Northern Elephant Seal numbers on Great Race continue to be 15 and they formed a huddle for most of the day in the lee of the only hill to hide behind.

 

Seal huddle.

Seal huddle.

Moulting head and flippers first.

Moulting head and flippers first, the old fur and skin form a garment.

The Glaucous-winged Gulls are at various stages in their preparations for parenthood and some appear to still be awaiting their mates.

Calendula blooming near Glaucous-winged Gull nest.

Calendula blooming near Glaucous-winged Gull nest.

Black Oystercatchers out for an evening flight.

Black Oystercatchers out for an evening flight.

The Pigeon Guillemots are quite accustom to being on land again now.

Guillemots at home on Great Race now.

Guillemots at home on Great Race now.

There were no visitors and chores were routine maintenance.

Blooming Thrift

May 3

The weather today was very similar to yesterday’s, with a flip flop breeze most of the day, finally becoming a 15- 20 knot westerly as dusk approached. Temperatures were a little warmer, 14o C and solar radiation levels about the same. The barometer is still dropping and the short-term forecast looks like more of the same with raining arriving Tuesday.

 

Two whale watching boats were observed in the Ecological Reserve this morning and a dive charter vessel supported divers in the ER.

Eagles continue to hunt in the ER as does a lone raven that visits daily and drives the oystercatchers mad.

 

Bald Eagles have been observed catching fish and chasing Canada Geese and Glaucous-winged Gulls in the last few weeks. As long as the wind is not too strong, they are here daily.

Bald Eagles have been observed catching fish and chasing Canada Geese and Glaucous-winged Gulls in the last few weeks. As long as the wind is not too strong, they are here daily.

There were 15 elephant seals on Great Race this morning and most of the day. Their moult continues.

Canada's largest and oldest Northern Elephant Seal colony is thriving at Race Rocks.

Canada’s largest and oldest Northern Elephant Seal colony is thriving at Race Rocks.

It is an itch business having a total body peel and hair removal.

It is an itch business having a total body peel and hair removal.

Only two "eyebrow" vibrissae to go. Nice symmetry, no plucking involved.

Only two “eyebrow” vibrissae to go. Nice symmetry, no plucking involved.

The southwest corner of Great Race is becoming an old age home for male sea lions and there were five hauled out there all day.

An 'old boy' having a snooze on the SW corner of Great Race, the new old boys club.

An ‘old boy’ having a snooze on the SW corner of Great Race, the new old boys club.

 

The Sea Thrift is blooming.

Sea Thirft, Armeria maritima supspecies maritima is an introduced species. I 'm not sure which sub-species this is, native or european.

Sea Thirft, Armeria maritima subspecies maritima is an introduced species. I ‘m not sure which sub-species this is, native or european.

I spent a bit of time in the inter-tidal today and soon discovered that the memory cards in the camera were full so I spent a lot more time culling and sorting photographs indoors.

 

Phylospadix scouleri, also known as surf grass is found in the low tide zone and the top of the sub-tidal. Here it is mixed with Desmarestia aculeata and bull kelp Nereocystis lutkeaena both subtidal species.

Phylospadix scouleri, also known as surf grass is found in the low tide zone and the top of the sub-tidal. Here it is mixed with Desmarestia aculeata and bull kelp Nereocystis lutkeaena both subtidal species.

Many of the species found in the inter-tidal at Race Rocks are more usually associated with outer coast, more wave exposed sites. The current here makes it a very rich hotspot for marine biodiversity.

Many of the species found in the inter-tidal at Race Rocks are more usually associated with outer coast, more wave exposed sites. The current here makes it a very rich hotspot for marine biodiversity.

Competition for space and creation of more habitat go hand in hand. Notice set of tiny barnacles on the California Mussels and a spot of Endocladia muricata which is what larval  Mytilus californianus likes to settle out on.

Competition for space and creation of more habitat go hand in hand. Notice set of tiny barnacles on the California Mussels and a spot of Endocladia muricata which is what larval Mytilus californianus likes to settle out on.

A Henry Star also known as the Blood Star or Henrycia spp.. It will need to find shade to conserve water so that it can breath through its skin.

A Henry Star also known as the Blood Star or Henrycia spp.. It will need to find shade to conserve water so that it can breath through its skin.

There were no visitors and chores were routine.

Mirounga Manicure

The west-southwest breeze sprang up early and quickly cleared the low morning cloud, revealing blue skies and a rippled Strait. With a sustained westerly wind of up to 20 knots the ripples grew into chop with whitecaps by mid-morning. It continued to blow in the afternoon rising to a steady 30 knots with gusts over 35. By early evening with the wind relentless, it is rough and streaked in white.

The barometric pressure, that harbinger of weather, slid almost imperceptibly downwards today, yet the forecast for tonight and tomorrow is for more west winds in the same pattern. There was increasing cloud throughout the afternoon.

There were no whale watching boats observed in the Ecological Reserve today and only one sports fisherman who sped through the ER, cutting over to the southwest, his favorite anchorage spot to fish for halibut, just outside the closed area.

The Northern Elephant Seals have moved to a more convenient spot behind the boathouse, which is closer to the water and more in the lee under the heli-pad hill. The moult continues.

 

Mirounga manicure. This right “hand” belongs to the biggest male Mirounga (elephant seal) on the island.

Mirounga manicure. This right “hand” belongs to the biggest male Mirounga (elephant seal) on the island.

 

The same animal making a "fist".

The same animal making a “fist”.

It is fascinating to watch the elephant seals use their digits and make what looks like a fist in a mitten of freshly moulted skin and fur.

Many pairs of gulls are mating now and I observed a pair of Black Oystercatchers doing the same. Some of the oystercatchers may already have eggs. I am taking clues from the raven that frequents the island and is always interested in a couple of pairs’ territories. The raven really riles up the oystercatchers, who fearlessly mob it. It was so windy today that while the chase was on, the raven tried a tuck to avoid being hit by an oystercatcher and almost lost control.

 

The eagles were fishing early but left when the winds came up. The photo below finishes the series I started a few days ago, to show how the eagle tucks the fish up under its tail in flight.

Notice the fish tucked up under the tail.

Notice the fish tucked up under the tail.

There were no visitors today and maintenance chores were routine.

 

The Day After Blue Planet Day

Winds started out very light from a northerly direction and eventually backed all the way through east, southeast and around to westerlies, 15 to 20 knots and gusting, in the afternoon. Although there were some clouds and showers it seemed to be a nice day, but when you look at cumulative solar radiation values they were less than half of yesterday’s values at just below 300 Langleys. The barometer fell gradually all day and levelled out near dusk ending up at ~100.5 HPa. The strong wind warning remains in effect and is forecast to be strongest in the afternoons for the next few days.

Whale watching boats were back today after the storm subsided and four were observed in the Ecological Reserve. They were meeting and exceeding the Marine Mammal Regulations and although a couple of the smaller cowboys did manage to get between Great Race and South Islands. They were going so slowly and cautiously that the sealions that didn’t even wake up as the boats passed by.

No sports fishers or other vessels were observed in the ER.

Black Turnstones in all their summer finery.

Black Turnstones in all their summer finery.

One branded Steller’s Sealion was noted hauled out on the South Islands. This female with brand # 120Y was born at St. George Reef, California in 2002.

Female Steller's (or Northern) Sealion # 120Y. This animal was born in northern California and will be 13 years old this summer.

Female Steller’s (or Northern) Sealion # 120Y. This animal was born in northern California and will be 13 years old this summer.

Today was animal census day and the results are as follows:

Northern Elephant Seals 34 (8 on Great Race)

Harbour Seals 44 (note 137 counted following day, less windy)

California Sea lions 11

Northern Sea lions 38

Sea Otter 1

Canada Geese 18

Harlequin Ducks 4

Pelagic Cormorants 4

Double Crested Cormorants 5

Bald Eagle 2 adults, 2 sub-adults

Killdeer 1

Black Oystercatchers 10

Black Turnstones 15

Surfbird 23

Dunlin 4

Pigeon Guillemots 383

Glaucous-winged Gulls 488 adults 18 sub-adults

Caspian Tern 1 (flying through)

Common Raven 1

Barn Swallows 2

Savannah Sparrow 6

There were no visitors today. Chores were routine.

 

 

All About the Wind.

The west wind blew all night and by daylight, the 30 to 35 knot winds had sucked in low cloud, rain and rough seas from offshore. Winds increased to 35 gusting to 40 knots in the late morning and continued unabated all afternoon. Air temperature was close to yesterday’s sea surface temperature of 9.7 o C and with the wind chill was hovering around 4oC. Light levels were the lowest of the last week and not even 60% of yesterday. The barometer bottomed out just before midnight last night and has been slowly creeping up and out of its hole today. Gale warnings remain in effect for tomorrow with the wind predicted to turn southeast Thursday.

The only thing not affected by the wind today was the stone tower.

Standing firm after 155 years.

Standing firm after 155 years.

There were no whale-watching tour boats in the Ecological Reserve today. Sea conditions were not conducive.

The ecological focus today was to observe how the mega-fauna behaved in the wind. Only a few sealions hauled out, the remainder rested in the water near the haul-out where it was probably quite a bit warmer without the wind chill factor.

This is a day when having blubber really makes sense.

This is a day when having blubber really makes sense.

The Northern Elephant Seals made a huddle and “took turns” being in the coveted central, heating position. One female slept off by herself, maybe not quite as warm but definitely more peaceful. Only #5850 went for daily ablutions, the others stayed dry, even if a bit mucky.

Female Northern Elephant Seal huddles up to sidewalk.

Northern Elephant Seal huddles up to sidewalk.

Glaucous-winged Gulls hunkered down with heads under wings, keeping a low profile and perhaps holding on with their toenails, as they seemed to totter and grimace during the big gusts. The geese with nests were on them with ganders close by guarding and staying low. The three pairs that are still trying to set up nests were observed chasing gulls . The Bald Eagles, so ubiquitous every other day for the last 25 days, were nowhere to be seen, nor were oystercatchers, turnstones, nor guillemots.

GwGu in wind

Two marine science classes were supposed to visit today but the weather just didn’t cooperate and Courtney wisely cancelled the trips. Thus there were no visitors and chores were basic routine.

 

 

Smokey Skies

The wind was still, early this morning. It didn’t really start moving until mid-afternoon, 5 – 10 knots from an east-southeastly direction. Although it was sunny, there was a haze in the air that made for a blazing sunset last night and sunrise today. I am curious if this is smoke, all the way from Squamish, where there was a big creosote wharf fire a few days ago?

sunset

Are these red skies in the evening and the morning a result of the Squamish wharf fire?

Are these red skies in the evening and the morning a result of the Squamish wharf fire?

The barometer rose slowly until about noon and then it started to slowly fall, nothing dramatic and no strong winds. The forecast is for more of the same, with afternoon westerlies tomorrow.

Three whale watching boat were noted in the Ecological Reserve today. The last whale watching vessel of the day, idled slowly through, keeping a deferential distance away from the animals, Tourists were out on the bow, shooting pictures of the blazing sunset and lounging marine mammals. It was a tranquil scene. No sports fishers were observed either speeding in the Ecological Reserve or fishing in the closed area, although several passed through at speeds respectful of the wildlife in the area.

Passive Northern Elephant Seal data collection continued. As luck would have it, all seven animals that had been sleeping in the garden, woke up and decided to go for a swim late morning. This allowed me to take their photos as they passed by the measuring device. I was also able to get some photos inside mouths for dentition information while they were wallowing around gargling saltwater and ‘wrestling’. Tagged animal #5850 continues to hang out as one of the seven ‘gardeners’.

Dentition changes with age and can be a health indicator. Say ah.

Dentition changes with age and can be a health indicator. Say ah….

A branded and tagged California Sealion # U 902 was noted hauling out on South Islets this afternoon. Note the large range of sizes of both species.

California Sealion branded and tagged U902 also read as C902 C is for the mouth of he Columbia River where it was born.

California Sealion branded and tagged U902 (lower left) can also be read as C902. C is for the mouth of he Columbia River, where it was born.

 

There are still three pairs of Canada Geese trying to establish nest sites and they are having a hard time finding territories on this tiny island that already has at least nine Canada Goose nests. Maybe they will head over to Vancouver Island where there is more room. Their territoriality can get in the way of other species having a piece of the very small island as they chase off, not just each other, but Glaucous-winged Gulls, Black Oystercatchers and Pigeon Guillemots.

There were no visitors today. Maintenance chores were routine.  About 9:30 PM the phone/Internet went down for the seventh time since I arrived. Even that is becoming routine.

A Stellar Day

Calm seas, sunshine and light winds combined to make it a very pleasant day. The wind really didn’t do much and direction changed throughout the day from west to southeast and back again. There was enough sunshine  to power the solar panels, run the de-salinator  and build up the batteries. The barometer declined slowly all day after a high start and the forecast is for a mix of sun and cloud tomorrow with a strong westerly winds predicted.

Two whale watching boats used the Ecological Reserve today.   From where they were, I am guessing that they enjoyed the pinnipeds and sea otter as well as the birds. Several sports fishing boats transited through at high speed and one fished close to the boundary.

Female Steller’s or Northern Sealion #334R was photographed today. She was branded as a pup in July 2003 at Rogue Reef in  southern Oregon.

Northern or Steller's Sealions hauled out on South Islets,  a female born in southern Oregon, branded with #334R is visible.

Steller’s Sealions hauled out on South Islets, a female born in southern Oregon in 2003, and branded with #334R is visible.

The Northern Elephant Seals continue to grace Great Race and I am getting used to them not reacting at all to my presence on the walkways.

Four Northern Elephant Seals like peas in a pod, next to the walkway to my house with their tails in the goose exclusion cage.

Four Northern Elephant Seals like peas in a pod, next to the walkway to the basement door.

The Glaucous-winged gulls are starting to mate and gather nesting materials. The Canada Geese are busy defending territory and brooding eggs. Black Oystercatchers are likewise busy when not foraging in the intertidal where limpets seem to be their favourite food.

Today was Animal Census Day and here are the results:

Northern Elephant Seals 26

Harbour Seals 147

California Sea lions 30

Steller’s Sea lions 36

Sea Otter 1

Canada Geese 18

Harlequin Ducks 3

Pelagic Cormorants 8

Double Crested Cormorants 7

Bald Eagle 2 adults, 5 sub-adults

Killdeer 1

Black Oystercatchers 10

Black Turnstones 9

Surfbirds 8

Pigeon Guillemots 164

Glaucous-winged Gulls 345

Northwestern Crow 6

Common Raven 1

There were no visitors today and maintenance chores were routine including running the fire pump to fill cistern.

 

Thursday is Census Day at Race Rocks

The weather was fine today with sunshine from dawn until about four o’clock. Winds were very light and the direction shifted around west, from northwest to southwest. As the barometers drops, rain is forecasted, southeast winds and then improving with only scattered showers by tomorrow afternoon.

The fine weather brought two small sports fishing boats into the Ecological Reserve today, both fishing and speeding inside the Ecological Reserve boundary.  My guess is that neither of them were aware of the Eco-Reserve and its protection from speeding and jigging.

There were three, whale watching boats in Reserve today and several others that passed outside of the boundaries. One of the attractions for the whale watchers were Biggs’ Killer Whales, also known as transients. The ‘T”s as they are known to the tour operators were travelling from west to east when I saw them and they passed very close to the seal haul-out on North Rocks before I lost them to view. It looked like four individuals. I saw a single, adult male Killer Whale two days ago, it was just a one-off sighting and I didn’t spot it again in spite of watching for quite a while. That one was also probably also a Biggs, just from the behaviour.

Today was Mega-fauna census day and here are the results.

Bigg’s (Transient) Killer Whales 4

Northern Elephant Seals 12

Harbour Seals 117

California Sea lions 69

Northern Sea lions 21

Canada Geese 24

Harlequin Ducks 9

Pelagic Cormorants 18

Double Crested Cormorants 15

Brandt’s Cormorants 12 (Flying through.)

Great Blue Heron 1

Bald Eagle 2 adults, 3 sub-adults

Killdeer 2 (at least two, difficult to count in the dark)

Black Oystercatchers 10

Black Turnstones 22

Surfbirds 37

Rock Sandpipers 7

Dunlin 11

Pigeon Guillemots 241 (Not a complete count. Had planned to quickly move over and do a north count but unable to count other side due to disruption with speeding boat and subsequent mass pandemonium and movement of birds everywhere.)

Glaucous-winged Gulls 365

Herring Gulls (present earlier in week)

California Gulls (present earlier in week)

Ring-Billed Gulls (present earlier in week)

Peregrine Falcon 1

Northwestern Crow 2

Common Raven 1

The Back Turnstone was one of the many species of shorebirds shown in yesterday's mystery photo. Easy to distinguish from Surfbird when they are side by side.

The Back Turnstone was one of the many species of shorebirds shown in yesterday’s mystery photo. Easy to distinguish from Surfbird when they are side by side.

Male Harlequin Duck sitting on rockweed in the inter-tidal.

Male Harlequin Duck sitting on rockweed in the inter-tidal.

What a difference between drake and hen. These 'white water' birds nest in the mountains by rushing streams and rivers.

What a difference between drake and hen. These ‘white water’ birds nest in the mountains by rushing streams and rivers.

It was a busy day with lots accomplished. I managed to get the weather station back up and connected to the Internet, thanks to good instructions. I have been on a bit of a wild goose chase, mapping out the nest locations of the Canada Geese. I troubleshot water loss problem (to no avail) and ran both the desalinator and generator. Sweeping the walkways and tidying up wood is ongoing. The census took quite a while and was totally enjoyable. This is such a special place, a real biodiversity hotspot especially underwater. What we see on the surface is like the tip of the biodiversity iceberg or the biomass (food) pyramid. All that biological activity can traced right back to plankton and sunshine that drives it. Sunshine made most of the fresh water today, thanks to the solar panels and desalinator.

Blustery Spring Weather

When you live on a small coastal islet, mysterious things happen with Internet and phone connections from time to time. Both crashed here last night so this blog is a combination of the two days. The weather has been typical of early spring weather in coastal British Columbia. Winds have generally been about 10 to 20 knots, swinging around from west to northwest and back again. Spectacular stacks of clouds keep rolling down the Strait from open ocean and the heavy showers visible in the surrounding hills would inspire any watercolour painter. Race Rocks itself seems to be in a drier micro-climate most of the time with showers all around – the centre of the donut. Dramatic skies continued right into sunset tonight with beautiful pinks and oranges framed by sweeping, purple and gray-blue clouds. The forecast for tomorrow looks even brighter.

South across the Strait, there was fresh snow, low in the Elwha Valley this morning and you could feel that cold nip in the air: perfect weather for sea going salmon smolts and just what the herring often spawn in. Speaking of weather, the weather station appears to have crashed so I will trouble-shoot that in the morning.

Eleven Northern Elephant Seals were hauled out on Middle Rock yesterday and one checked out the jetty ramp this morning.

Eleven Northern Elephant Seals were hauled out on Middle Rock yesterday and one checked out the jetty ramp this morning.

In spite of the blustery conditions, there were three whale watching boats in the Ecological Reserve today and lots to see in terms of smaller wildlife which are often over-looked and are really stunning in their own right.

Two charismatic species, a Black Oystercatcher and a Harlequin Duck share a rock.

Two charismatic species, a Black Oystercatcher and a Harlequin Duck share a rock.

This Oystercatcher likes to stand with his/her toes crossed. Does it make for more stability in the wind?

The toe-crossing Black Oystercatcher.

The toe-crossing Black Oystercatcher.

Here is a challenge for you, inspired by the ‘Marine Detective’ who does a similar thing with underwater photos of cryptic fish. How many species and how many birds can you spot in the photo below?

A mixed species flock of shorebirds rests on Race Rocks in the lee of the Light Tower and main house. How many species and how many birds? More hints (photos) to follow on the different species.

A mixed species flock of shorebirds rests on Race Rocks in the lee of the Light Tower and main house. How many species and how many birds? More hints (photos) to follow on the different species.

All of these species nest on the ground so being hard to see is a good thing. So does the stay-at-home Black Oystercatcher which is hard to ignore and nests along the BC coast, close to its’ natal shore.

Many of the shorebirds resting here on Race Rocks, fly all the way up to the arctic to breed. Surfbirds nest on mountain ridges in the Yukon and Alaska while Dunlin prefer wet coastal tundra. Rock Sandpipers make their nests on the tundra in northwestern Alaska near the Bering Sea. Black Turnstones also nest along the Bering Sea, near coastal meadows in western Alaska.

This little bird wings its way to the mountains of the Yukon and Alaska to nest.

This little bird wings its way to the mountains of the Yukon and Alaska to nest.

Another arctic breeder, I think the bird in front is a Dunlin.

Another arctic breeder, I think the bird in front is a Dunlin.

This Bering Sea, tundra nester sips a bit of water off a rock in between naps.

This Bering Sea, tundra nester sips a bit of water off a rock in between naps.

Although I wouldn’t call it a migration, I did a few kilometers today, wheel barrowing around firewood wood and wood chips, tending the desalinator and energy building, and getting distracted from my labours by photographing birds.  I was really pleased that the sunshine allowed for water making with the desalinator without the using the generator. The genny only required an hour run time, to top up the batteries thanks to the solar panels.

Back on the Rock

Last night’s storm blew in just as shift-change finished. Nick Townley waved goodbye from Second Nature as Chris Blondeau, still in his dry-suit from the diving activity, pulled the vessel out into the tidal stream and headed her back to Pedder Bay.

Nick Townley

Nick Townley ( a photo from last fall, selfie?).

Six students from Pearson College came out to the rock for the weekend and I started my shift with great company. Their goal was to catch up on studies (and sleep (my guess)) and to have their own experience in this gem of a biodiversity hotspot.

As we unpacked and settled into the two houses, heavy rain followed the black horizon moving in quickly from western Strait of Juan de Fuca. It was very nice to be snug inside as it was a wild night with heavy squalls. There were quite a few rattles and thumps that I didn’t recognize from last fall’s storms. Morning broke with gusts over 30 knots in the tower and alternate clearing skies and rainbows shone through and faded out on all sides. It was a white water scene with wind and current colliding in a frenzy. The barometer which had taken a nose dive Thursday and Friday, climbed back up to over 1024 HPa from Friday’s low of 1009. By noon, the westerly winds had dropped to 12 knots and the afternoon and evening was uneventful; overcast with showers and light winds shifting to northwest.

Although there was no fishing activity in the Ecological Reserve (ER) today, five wildlife viewing tour boats were noted. I was surprised by the number of both Northern and California sealions still hanging out and there were at least 75 Harbour Seals hauled out in the afternoon (not a complete count. I saw two pairs of adult bald eagles and numerous other birds including Canada Geese, Black Oystercatchers, Harlequin Ducks, Black Turnstones, Pigeon Guillemots, Double-crested and Pelagic Cormorants and an interesting mix of gulls. Many of the Glaucous-winged Gulls are already paired up and getting excited about spring. They are scattered around Great Race in all the places that there were nests last year. A much more condensed flock of gulls with about 100 birds was hunkered down in the lee of the rock on the west side of the science house. This flock was a mix of some unexpected visitors including Herring Gulls, Ring-Billed Gulls and even a few California Gulls, probably en route somewhere else. As dusk fell last night I heard the calls of Killdeer and it really felt like my home away from home.

It was great to get back up the tower again and have a good look around and for fun and more exercise, I started clearing off some of the winter’s woody debris accumulated on the marine railway. Greenlanders Hana and Malou joined in and we made it into a bit of a game, practicing our aim and strengthening arms. When we finished there was a stream of wood heading out to sea and we hoped that the whale watching boats were avoiding the busy tide lines.