After the Blow

The west wind dominated today, 10 -15 knots in the morning rising to 25 – 35 in the afternoon. Periods of sunshine were obliterated by purple line squalls with heavy rain. Barometric pressure rose all day and was 1012 hPa at 20:00. The outlook is for west winds 10 – 20, a 70% chance of rain and then clearing and light winds on Wednesday.

Three whale watching vessels were observed working in the Ecological Reserve today. There were two large military explosions and the picket boats were on duty near, but outside the protected area.

The Harbour Seals and Pigeon Guillemots returned in numbers today and the gulls are preparing for spring in spite of low snow on the Olympic Mountains across the strait.

Temporary patches were applied to the derrick house, boathouse and tank shed between squalls. The basement of the science house was mopped out and various window leaks in both houses cleaned up. Other chores were routine.

These two peaks in the Olympic Mountains, just east of the Elwha look a bit like Olympic Lions.

These two peaks in the Olympic Mountains, just east of the Elwha look a bit like Olympic Lions.

Sea Spray and Flying Foam

Update at 17:40

Since writing the log the wind turned to west, southwest and came up even stronger. We have sustained gusts up to 62.7 knots. Seas are coming over the helipad and the tank-shed and boat shed roofs are being stripped off and are flying past the house. Yikes.

Sustained east, southeast winds of 30 to 40 knots, gusting to over 50, pushed seas up into breaking whitecaps this morning. Large breakers rolled down the jetty and rose up around the derrick base making seawater sampling impossible. Under heavy skies, waves crashed against the eastern face of Great Race and flying sheets of salt spray dominated the small landscape here. There was even a pocket of sea foam building up on the boulder beach and foam was flying right across the island.

Barometric pressure dropped overnight and kept going down in the morning, reaching 982 HPa by early afternoon. The highest gusts were observed late morning 53.4 knots on the Lighthouse system which we can monitor in the kitchen. Gale warnings continue and the forecast is calling for a turn to strong westerlies in the afternoon, diminishing to southwest 15 to 20 overnight. As this log is posted at ~15:00, there is no sign of it letting up and the rain has started.

It was not a day for small vessels to be out and none were seen. Pan pans on the VHF radio included an overturned Junior Flyer with a father and son (a child), clinging to the hull of the overturned vessel. Their call originated in Puget Sound and the US Coast Guard rescued them. What was that man thinking?

There is obviously a great deal of mixing going on in the sea, with all the wind and wave energy churning things. That means spring phytoplankton blooms are still some time away and early herring spawns may produce larvae that go hungry. Stratification (stable layering of the water) becomes possible when less dense surface waters (warmer, less salty, or both), float on top of denser seawater (saltier, colder or both). That layering in surface waters gives some stability for growth of photosynthetic plankton that drive the food chain and rely on light. Light levels are returning, there are lots of nutrients, so as soon as it calms down for a while there should be a plankton ‘bloom’.

On the bottom, microscopic Bull Kelp ‘plants’ are starting to grow now. They will be full size by July after phenomenal  growth fuelled by sunlight and nutrients. A few ‘old growth’ Bull Kelp were visible today, silhouetted through the waves on breaking reefs; for brief seconds as the waves crested, they stretched out fully vertical. Bull Kelp clings with tenuous holdfasts anchored through storms and calm. They are considered to be an annual species and don’t generally last much more than a year so the ones still here are very hardy.

The wild goose chase continued today as if the weather wasn’t enough to ward them off. It was too windy for the eagles and the gulls were hunkered down in nooks and hollows head into the wind in order to stand their ground against the wind. A few of the larger sea lions managed to haul out mid day. It looked too difficult (and dangerous) for the smaller animals that were seen cavorting in the waves. Again there was no sign of seals or guillemots.

Landing would have been impossible today. Even at low tide, big breakers were sweeping the jetty. Chores were routine as wind and spray permitted.

Like the farm of the same name 'Wind Whipped'.

Like the farm of the same name ‘Wind Whipped’.

 

 

 

Rest and Recovery: The Lull

Friday and Saturday were both calmer days, with light winds and a mix of cloud and sun. The barometric pressure dropped slowly all day Friday and then wobbled back up today to ~1001 hPa where it holds as this entry is posted at 19:00. There is a warning for central Juan de Fuca Strait, calling for ‘Gale’ force winds of 34 to 47 knots east to southeast. At dusk there were large thunder clouds dropping heavy rain, moving towards Sooke.

With the warning in place and the last storm a fresh memory, there were few small vessels seen on the horizon yesterday and today. Only two vessels were observed within the Ecological Reserve boundaries today. One was a speeding sports-fishing boat heading for Victoria. It passed remarkably close to the small reef that just shows above the surface, west of North Rock. The other was also a sporty boat equipped for salmon and halibut. It passed through Middle Channel very slowly, against the flood.

The Strait was busy with marine traffic including four RoRos, (roll-on, roll-off, car carrying vessels with a capacity of ~6,000 vehicles each), in a steady procession outbound. The cable laying ship was inbound as was the tanker Argent Sunrise amongst many others coming and going.

On Great Race, the Glaucous-winged Gulls are back in force, pairs occupying their favourite spots in shiny new plumage. The gull count today was 340 including ~25% juveniles and an estimated 125 paris of adults. One Western Gull and a few California Gulls were amongst the mix. Every time a bald eagle passes over, all the gulls lift off as though raising their collective hat in respect. The two birds observed killed by eagles, to date, on this shift, were both cormorants. They are not such skilful flyers as the gulls and probably easier to pick off.

Harbour Seals missing in action during the last census; have returned to their haul-outs and today’s count was 97 individuals. The Pigeon Guillemots returned this morning as well (~75) but were all gone by early afternoon.

Remnants of the heritage lighthouse gardens are blooming everywhere right now and the rich green growth is a draw for Canada Geese.

Went ashore yesterday for first time this shift. Picked up Alex and supplies. The visit is timely on many fronts. Chores were much more than routine today and it is really great to have good company.

 

 

 

 

Back on the Rock: March 2– 4th

Wednesday morning, while tide, wave height and current speed were just right; we slipped a crew change through a narrow window between two gales. As we waved goodbye, and I turned to get moved in, the barometer started to drop again.

After four and half months away, it was good to be back on Great Race with its familiar views of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. As an averred naturalist, I couldn’t help notice that North Rock was bristling like a military brush cut, with 350 – 400 cormorants. All three species Pelagic, Double-crested and Brandt’s, were ‘drying out’ on this strategic roost after foraging in the sea. An adult Bald Eagle swooped in and the cormorants en masse, hit the water. The tidal ebb started to clear them out to sea, pulled by moon and pushed hard by rainwater rising in the Salish Sea. The cormorants dispersed and the counting moment was over; some flew, some dove and others disappeared into the gloom, as more rain squalls swept in.

Concentrating on moving in and checking all systems in order, counts were put on hold for Thursday’s census. Chunk, the big, pup-killing, male Elephant Seal was lying where he had apparently been, on and off, for a week. He was a little too close to the path for comfort, which meant that coming and going to the energy building involved tip-toeing by, while keeping a look-out for his eyes to open and being ready to run, if necessary. Of course it is never necessary but absence makes the fear forget.

Riley left things fairly ship shape and I knew that everything was going to be fine when the old Lister generator roared to life. In the evening, the wind gradually rose to 36 knots, ESE, a speed and direction that makes the back door of the house whistle a weird, three-toned tune, but it didn’t keep me from a deep sleep.

Seawater sampling came early and the morning weather was fairly wet and windy. The sun broke out with rainbows in the afternoon and the wind dropped to less than 10 knots. As the sun sets now, the forecast is calling for light winds, a chance of showers Friday morning with rain again by afternoon.

Once established that it was a beautiful afternoon, three small whale-watching boats came out to watch the sea lions on South Rocks. It always makes me a little nervous to see them with their human cargo in close to the south reefs and the sea lions. Their insurance companies probably wouldn’t be too keen on that sight either.

Today was census day and there were interesting differences in the timings of comings and goings of different species. Today, the Pigeon Guillemots were here at first light and numbers kept increasing until about noon. They were all gone by late afternoon. The Black Oystercatchers were together in a squawky flock early in the morning and then dispersed. The sea lions hauled out mostly in the morning but additional individuals hauled throughout the day. The cormorants started roosting late morning and were mostly back in the water by late afternoon. The Harbour Seals hauled out in the late afternoon. There were few gulls in the morning, but by mid-day some were pairing up and looking like they might already be standing near their nest sites. By late afternoon there were over 200 gulls roosting on the island but they were gone by the time I came back from shutting down the generator at 21:00. The Killdeer, as usual arrived after dark.

The diverse temporal use of the Ecological Reserve by different species would be missed in a standard count where the observer passed through during a set amount of time. By having an Eco-Gaurdian here throughout the day, a much more thorough accounting of the different species use of the Protected Area is possible.

Here are the results of the animal census:

2016 03-Mar
River Otter 1
Northern Elephant Seal 1
Harbour Seal 72
Northern Sea Lion (Steller’s) 36
California Sea Lion 41
Canada Goose 6
Harlequin Duck 16
Surf Scoter 11
Common Merganser 1
Brandt’s Cormorant 50
Double-crested Cormorant 150
Pelagic Cormorant 100
Cormorant 50
Bald Eagle (juvenile) 9
Bald Eagle (adult) 2
Killdeer 2
Black Oystercatcher 24
Black Turnstone 23
Surfbird 1
Mew Gull 2
Glaucous-winged Gull (+hybrids) 214
Pigeon Guillemot 147
Northwestern Crow 2
Fox Sparrow 1
Song Sparrow 1

Friday’s weather was windy and wet. There was a lull early, as it switched for a short time to southwest but then turned back with a vengeance to strong northeast and big seas. The forecast is for a switching back and forth from southeast veering to southwest and back. It is blowing north 24 knots as I post this Friday evening, but is supposed to come down to light variable in the morning, rising againSaturday afternoon.

One whale watching vessel used the Ecological Reserve today and like yesterday’s boats, it too ventured into the danger zone of breaking reefs on the south side. The ebb was so large at the time that there were standing waves and a huge overfall along the string of rocks, islets and shallows. After a few tippy moments, they got out of there and I was glad they were all safe and sound.

I fought entropy today doing a few minor cleanups, making kindling and moving propane tanks around (downhill and empty). The usual chores also kept me busy. I tried to figure out what is going on with the camera, which has not yet fully cooperating. Now that I am through the technical barriers and able to post the blog I will be doing so daily and hope to post photos soon.

 

Last Full Day of the Shift

Weather

  • Visibility: 15 miles
  • Wind: 5-10 knots East
  • Water: 1′ chop
  • Sky: mix of sun and cloud

Ecological

  • Chunk and Chuckles still in their respective positions on Great Race.
  • Noticed over 50 harbour seals today.
  • In general much more wildlife than yesterday.

Maintenance

  • Ran the fire pump for 40 minutes. This added about 1′ of water to the cistern.
  • Filled up the tidy tank using the equivalent of one barrel of diesel (55 gallons).
  • Stacked more firewood.
  • Emptied the ash from the wood stove in the main house.
  • General tidying up in the house to make it ready for the next Eco-guardian.
  • Wrote my shift end report.

Boats

  • One pleasure craft was hanging out near West Rock in the morning.
  • In the afternoon one eco-tour came through Middle Channel. It was a strange looking boat that I had never seen before with the words “Luna BC” on it.
  • The HMCS Ottawa was out in the straight. According to the Marine Traffic website it made it all the way out to the open ocean today.

Other

  • I couldn’t get the camera to take any photographs today. I think I bumped one of its many buttons (most of which I don’t know what they do) as it appears to be on a different setting than I am used to.

Very Large Eco-Tour Catamaran

Weather

  • Visibility: 15 miles
  • Wind: 5-10 knots NE
  • Water: rippled
  • Sky: overcast

Ecological

  • Chunk and Chuckles are still on Great Race. I’m not even sure they are going off island at night these days.
  • There was a lone harbour seal hauled out on a rock near the derrick most of the day.
  • Saw some bald eagles gnawing away at the dead elephant seal pup.

Maintenance

  • Cleared logs off of the ramp.
  • Began making a list of things to do by the end of the month.

Boats

  • The Sir Wilfred Laurier patrol vessel was out in the straight this morning. Quite a fine looking ship!
  • One pleasure craft with a family on board stopped by to view the sea lions. They seemed to be too close.
  • Two eco-tours came by this afternoon. The first one was the largest boat that I have ever seen in the reserve. The second one appeared to be too close to the sea lions, and a few of them made haste for the water.

Birds and Boats

Weather

  • Visibility: 15 miles
  • Wind: 5-10 knots NE
  • Water: rippled
  • Sky: clear
Sunset

Sunset

Ecological

  • Chunk and Chuckles still on Great Race.
  • Saw a northern sea lion branded with 354Y.
  • Saw a northern sea lion with a cooker cutter shark scar.
  • Noticed at least 50 harbour seals out on the south islands today.
  • Saw a common merganser wash itself on a rock close to shore. Apparently it is quite uncommon to see them at Race Rocks. Later some harlequin ducks swam nearby.
  • Saw a jellyfish floating around near the jetty. Not sure what variety it was.
  • Noticed some grape hyacinth for the first time today. By my estimate there are least 6 different species of flowers now in bloom out here.

Bald Eagles and Snowy Mountains

Maintenance

  • Stacked firewood until there was no remaining space. Will have to restart stacking once some of the stores have been burnt up to create space.

Boats

  • Jeff and his two Belgian volunteers came by with food supplies this morning. Eggs, milk, and bread. Surprised the Belgians didn’t bring me any Jupiler.
  • Quite a bit of traffic today out in the straight. Documented the more interesting looking ones with photographs.
  • One fishing boat went through the middle channel of the reserve.

Other

  • Heard 5 DND blasts today from Bentinck Island. A small one at 12:47, and then 4 medium blasts at 12:50, 12:55, 15:04, and 15:06. The animals didn’t make too much of a fuss.

One of today's DND blasts

Census and 3rd New Weaner

Weather

  • Visibility: 15 miles
  • Wind: 20-30 knots NE, later 15 W
  • Water: 2′ chop
  • Sky: overcast with showers

Ecological

  • Chunk and Chuckles were both on Great Race today, but I saw no interactions.
  • The mother is gone on Middle Rock, making her pup a weaner.
  • Conducted a census.
  1. California Sea Lions: 75
  2. Northern Sea Lions: 32
  3. Harbour Seals: 6
  4. Elephant Seals: 3
  5. Seagulls: 300
  6. Cormorants: 299 (142 on Great Race, of which 87 were Double Crested, 28 Pelagic, 8 male Brandt’s, and 19 unidentifiable to me. 157 on North Rock, too far away to identify.)
  7. Black Turnstones: 39
  8. Surfbirds: 18
  9. Canada Geese: 18
  10. Black Oystercatchers: 13
  11. Harlequin Ducks: 8 (6 male, 2 female)
  12. Bald Eagles: 3 (2 adults, 1 juvenile)
  13. Crows: 3
  14. Ravens: 2
  15. American Pipit: 1

Maintenance

  • Hauled logs off the ramp.
  • Checked the diesel in the tidy tank.

Boats

  • Didn’t see any boats near the reserve today.

 

Powerful DND Blasting and Bald Eagle

Weather

  • Visibility: 15 miles
  • Wind: 20-25 knots NE
  • Water: 2′ chop
  • Sky: overcast

Ecological

  • The newest female elephant seal was gone this morning.
  • Chunk mated with the current mother on Great Race today. Unlike the other times I have seen him initiate mating, the female did not fight back or try to get away. She seemed okay with it, and her pup lay beside her as it happened.
  • Chuckles spent the day on the south-east corner of Great Race.
  • Status quo on Middle Rock with the mum and pup.
  • Lady left the island at 3:30, just after the 5th and 6th DND blasts.
  • Watched a bald eagle tear away at weaner’s head for over half an hour at dusk. This was the first time I had seen an eagle approach the corpse. Fascinating.

Maintenance

  • Mopped up the remaining water in the Energy Building.
  • Stacked more firewood in the water shed.
  • Cleared logs and debris off the ramp three times.

Other

  • There were 6 very powerful DND blasts today coming from Bentinck Island. They came in three pairs, each pair spaced out from the other. I was outside for the first two and they hurt my ears. I was inside for the final four, and they shook the house considerably.
  • After when I walked around the island, I noticed that nearly all the birds and sea lions had disappeared. There was only 1 sea lion on Great Race, and he appeared to be injured, which would explain why he was the only one who stayed. There were about 10 sea lions left on South Island, and 20 Harbour Seals. No cormorants. The blasting must have scared the rest off.
Smoke from blasting

Smoke from blasting.

Branded Sea Lion 443Y

Weather

  • Visibility: 15 miles
  • Wind: 5-10 knots W
  • Water: 1′ chop
  • Sky: mostly clear

Ecological

  • Spotted 9 immature bald eagles on South Island with one mature eagle a bit farther away.
  • Status quo with the elephant seals, although I have my suspicions that the female whom Chuckles tried to mate with yesterday is not the grieving mother, but a different one arrived the night before, and the grieving mother departed.
  • The pup out on Middle Rock seems to be getting quite large. Perhaps he’ll become a weaner soon?
  • There were over 50 harbour seals in the reserve today.
  • Saw a northern sea lion branded with 443Y.

Maintenance

  • More cleaning in the Student’s House.
  • Stacked firewood in the water shed.

Boats

  • No eco-tours today.
  • One fishing boat passed nearby.
  • A large container ship seems to be anchored out in the strait towards Victoria.